Drain the soaked dal and rajma, rinse, and add to a pressure cooker with 4 cups of fresh water, the bay leaf, black cardamom and salt. Pressure cook for 8 to 9 whistles (about 30 minutes) until both are completely soft — the urad should crush to a paste between your fingers.

Lightly mash a ladleful of the dal in the cooker itself and stir it back in; this starts the creamy body. Keep the dal in its cooking water.

Heat the butter and oil in a heavy pan and let the cumin seeds crackle. Add the ginger-garlic paste and green chillies; cook for a minute until the raw smell goes.

Add the tomato puree and cook on medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring often, until very thick, darkened and glossy with butter showing at the sides.

Lower the heat and stir in the chilli powder and coriander powder for a minute.

Pour in the cooked dal with all its water. Stir well and bring to a gentle boil.

Now simmer on the lowest heat for at least 45 minutes (a full hour is better), stirring every few minutes and scraping the base. Add splashes of hot water as it thickens — the dal should slowly turn dark, creamy and unified, with no separate watery layer.

Add the garam masala and crushed kasuri methi. Taste and fix the salt — makhani needs confident seasoning.

Stir in the cream and the finishing knob of butter; simmer 2 minutes without boiling hard.

Optional dhungar: heat the charcoal until red, set it in a small steel bowl on the dal, drizzle the ghee over it, and cover the pan for 2 minutes as it smokes. Remove the bowl before serving.

Serve with a swirl of cream and butter on top, with naan, jeera rice or laccha parathas.