Whisk the flour, gram flour and curd in a bowl. Add the warm water a little at a time, whisking to a smooth, lump-free batter with the consistency of thick pancake batter — it should fall off the whisk in a ribbon. Cover and leave in a warm spot for 10 to 12 hours, until the surface shows small bubbles and the batter smells faintly tangy.

Make the syrup: boil the sugar and water together for 4 to 5 minutes until it reaches one-string consistency (a drop stretched between finger and thumb forms a single thread). Stir in the cardamom, lemon juice and saffron or colour. Keep it warm on the lowest heat — jalebis must land in warm syrup.

Stir the baking soda into the fermented batter gently, just until mixed. Fill the batter into a squeeze bottle, a piping bag with a small round nozzle, or a thick plastic pouch with one corner snipped off.

Heat ghee or oil in a wide, flat pan to medium heat. To test, pipe one small spiral: it should sink, then rise within seconds, puffing slightly, without browning instantly.

Holding the bottle close to the surface, pipe tight spirals straight into the hot fat — start at the centre and circle outwards 3 to 4 times, finishing with a line across the middle to hold the spiral together. Pipe 4 to 5 jalebis per batch.

Fry for about a minute per side until crisp and deep golden. Lift out with a skewer through the centre, let the fat drain for a few seconds.

Drop the hot jalebis straight into the warm syrup. Press down gently, leave for 15 to 20 seconds per side — long enough to fill, short enough to stay crisp — then lift out onto a wire rack.

Repeat with the rest of the batter, keeping the syrup warm and topping up the frying fat as needed.

Serve immediately, while still warm and crackling, with pistachios sprinkled over — or the classic way, with a bowl of rabri or a glass of warm milk.