Make the dough: mix the flour, ajwain and salt in a bowl. Add the ghee and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture looks like breadcrumbs and holds its shape when pressed — this rubbing is what makes the crust flaky.

Add cold water a spoonful at a time and bring it together into a stiff, tight dough (softer dough gives soft samosas). Cover and rest for 30 minutes.

For the filling, heat the oil in a pan and let the cumin seeds crackle. Add the ginger, green chillies and peas; sauté for 2 minutes.

Lower the heat and add the coriander powder, chilli powder, amchur, garam masala, fennel and salt. Stir for a few seconds.

Add the crumbled potatoes and mix gently, keeping some chunky pieces — never mash the filling smooth. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stir in the fresh coriander, then spread the filling on a plate to cool completely.

Divide the dough into 5 balls. Roll each into an oval about 6 inches long, cut it in half, and shape each half into a cone, sealing the straight edge with a dab of water.

Fill the cone with about 2 tablespoons of filling, seal the open base firmly with water, and pinch a small pleat at the back so the samosa sits upright. Repeat — you will get 10 samosas.

Heat oil in a kadhai on low heat. The oil should be just warm, not smoking. Slide in a batch of samosas and fry on low for about 10 minutes, until the crust firms up and turns pale gold.

Now raise the heat to medium and fry for 3 to 4 more minutes until deep golden and crisp. Drain on a rack or kitchen paper.

Fry the remaining batches the same way, letting the oil cool back down a little between batches. Serve hot with mint and tamarind chutneys.